To say that Sue and I moved here for the food, while not 100% accurate, isn’t too far from the truth. Our first visit to the Montpelier Farmers Market provided reason enough to move here. The veggies seemed brighter. The bread, crustier. The coffee, more pungent. The cheese, grassier and funkier. The wood-fired pizza, more savory and exuberant. And all this, set against the backdrop of a fleeting growing season. These growers and producers… our heroes! The farmers markets of Central Vermont stole our hearts.
There was also this terrific book: The Town That Food Saved, by Ben Hewitt. It chronicles the transformation of the down-on-its-luck town of Hardwick, and how a new generation of agricultural and culinary entrepreneurs re-vitalized the town with food-based businesses and regenerative farming practices. Ben, at the time, lived in Cabot so the attraction to this part of the world became very strong.
Not to idealize too much here… One of the biggest shocks of moving to Vermont was how expensive the food was compared to other places. But when you take into account the extent to which corporate farming practices keep commercial food prices artificially low, you can see how other states underpay what wholesome and sustainable food should rightly cost. Fortunately, I think Vermonters generally accept and understand that farmers need to be paid a fair wage for the quality food they grow, and are willing to pay it. It’s as much a philosophical practice as it is good economics: those fairer wages translate into better soil to feed ourselves in the future.
Most people we know grow something. You can’t swing a cat around here without hitting someone who produces something to put on the dinner table. And there’s always a massive amount of bartering going on. If one is in the need, all one has to do is put out a notice on the online community bulletin board and chances are someone will respond.
Ultimately, there’s a sense of security in knowing that so many folks possess the skills to create something good to eat. Potlucks are big around here. Gifting home-made food products are how we demonstrate that we love each other. How fortunate we are, and how grateful I am, that so many people hold as the highest of priorities, having healthy soil, abundant water, and clean air to grow this beautiful food.
Thanks for reading y’all!
Dana
Great essay. I grew up in Vermont and raised three kids in Vermont. Always had a garden. Usually way too big for what we could eat. And, since everyone else did too, you couldn't give the excess away. As you know, in Vermont you have to leave your car locked during the summer or you'll find it filled with zucchini. However, prices for food vary from urban to rural. We now spend summers here but live the other part of the year in Los Angeles. Food is much more expensive there, so, it all depends... We do have farmers markets nearby, but the produce here is more vibrant and healthy looking. And, pasture raised, organic meats are available a mile or two up the road. We love it here. Why did real estate prices have to jump up so much??